Saturday, 28 December 2013

An essay on Power to the People



                   Awake, Arise: AAP’s successful twin experiments with Power to the People
2013, the year of aam admi also marked the 150th birth anniversary of Swami Vivekananda. Swamiji popularized the sloka from Katha Upanishad “arise, awake, stop not until your goal is achieved.” (Uttisthata Jagrata Prapya Barannibodhata) This message was to his fellow countrymen to get out of their hypnotized state of mind.
Arvind Kejriwal riding on Anna Hazare’s movement, ‘India Against Corruption’  has successfully awakened the aam admi to rise and have his say in the recently concluded Delhi elections. He continues to exhort him not to stop till his goal is achieved.
What is an aam admi’s  goal?  It is Swaraj or freedom from the ruling ‘elite’ whose rule is rather exaggeratedly shown to be more oppressive than was that of the British Raj. His goal is to make his and his fellow aam admis’ voice heard as he believes that through Swaraj the government of the ‘elite’ will be replaced by the government of aam admi and thereby the government  will be made directly accountable to the people of India that has a large majority of aam admis. The AK’s model of Swaraj lays stress on self governance, community building and decentralisation. The Numero Uno of aam admi, Arvind Kejriwal says his party will not be guided by any ideology( though his friend, philosopher and guide  Yogendra Yadav had stated that AAP is a socialist  party)and that they are entering politics to change the system.
Utopian in concept, the AAP aims at replacing the neo-plutocracy by aam admi democracy where the governance is in the hands not of a few, but of the entire people of the nation (that necessarily has to include the non aam admis as well). But AK repeatedly says that he is not the Chief Minister, the aam admi will be( this automatically excludes all  non aam admis).  He has thus cut a deep division between aam admi and the non aam admi.
But what is baffling is who is the aam admi? In simple definition it refers to the common man. But that does not explain his full credentials. When the India Against Corruption movement began a lot of the apathetic middle class joined it. They were mainly the government employees – the  Babus- who enjoy all the government perks including accommodation, government health scheme benefits, constant increase in pay through additional Dearness Allowances, and of course good money received under the table( about which ironically they protest). So the aam admi that AK refers to may not be the middle class, but those who are at a still lower rung of society- the large group that daily experiences deprivation of the minimum level of existence. No wonder, AK appeared to them as the new Messiah and awakened them from their ignorance to an awareness that they have a voice to make  demands.
AK’s utopian idea of governance by the masses is already in existence in villages and rural areas. The form of governance through seeking the views of the villagers is known as the Panchayati Raj, the earliest form of local government in villages where each village is given responsibility for its own affairs. Modern Indian government has decentralized several administrative functions to the local level, empowering elected gram panchayats. Thus AAP’s vision of governance is an extension of Panchayati Raj from the villages to the larger Metropolitan areas that are burdened with complex issues and multidimensional problems. These problems will multiply hundredfold on the National scene. So what is done through gram panchayats at a micro level may not be possible at a macro national level.
It is well known that the population keeps increasing in the urban areas with daily influx of villagers into the metro cities. While there is no reverse migration from the cities to the rural areas, the arrival of a large number of migrants to the cities makes heavy demands on the resources available  there  -especially water, power, housing, security, schools and sanitation. The   AAP experiment( to be tried form tomorrow) in mob governance  faces challenges from diverse population in the cities- from the rich and the affluent to the middle level babus(government employees , small traders and shopkeepers) to the aam admis,  to the migrants. How to please these varied groups if everyone is given voice to demand his form of governance? AK talks about Mohalla sabhas. But even the Mohallas in Delhi are many and the non-mohallas are of equal numbers. There will be different demands on fund allocations by these Mohallas that will spark internecine quarrel over the rightful distribution of funds as per their individual demands. Participatory governance sounds brilliant as a concept but this effectively means creating unhealthy competitiveness, antagonism and conflicts among the people. Delhi, all these years has been a cosmopolitan city – a mini India-where people from different states have been living together forming  sabhas and societies that banded them together as distinct linguistic and cultural groups such as Tamils, Keralites, Sikhs, Telugus , Maharashtrians etc. A uniform policy of governance in the best interests of the citizens has served Delhi well all these years. Maybe the aam admis of each group may not have reaped the benefits of such governance, but to substitute it through Mohalla sabhas is to destroy the unity and cohesiveness of the society. This is a danger that AAP cannot ignore.  
Even if it is a bitter truth,  it is a fact that a large number of aam admis – more so the migrant labour- are illiterates and therefore they should not be the arbiters of major policy decisions that includes security, education, health, land acquirement, finance, generation of power, augmentation of water  supply –to name just a few. What is now euphemistically called as mass-governance will descend to mobocracy-where the uneducated and illiterate classes without knowledge, appreciation and respect for law and order will have political control of public affairs. Delhi cannot be ruled on the pattern of federal states where each has its own autonomy that cannot be infringed upon.
The present political churning in India reminds us  of England of the1950s  as it went  through a social churning with the  working class cultural movement that developed in theatre, art, novels, film and television plays, whose educated 'heroes' from Brick Universities were described as angry young men. This movement encouraging ordinary people to look back in anger used a style of social realism, and presented the working-class Britons living in cramped rented accommodation and spending their off-hours drinking in grimy pubs, to explore social issues and political controversies. The angry young men voiced the dissatisfaction of the poorer industrial areas in the North of England, and used their rough accents and slang. This was known as Kitchen Sink School realism as it dwelt on the ugly realities of contemporary life and sympathized with working-class people, particularly the poor.  With the coming of large number of immigrants in the decades that followed, there came   a perceptible decline  in the attitude, behaviour and manners of  the  English society.
The present cultural broadside against everything the Establishment has represented is at the centre of AAP’s meteoric rise as it touched the chord of every aam admi who had been denied the basic amenities of living. It is worrisome to see the repetition of Kitchen sink realism in India by well dressed,  educated and self styled guardians of the society’s morals and culture who  suddenly discover themselves to be aam admis and hold forth on TV channels  and rile  against establishment in the most provocative language. The TV anchors and the experts enjoy shouting at the ‘netas’( or the spokespersons of the political parties), using the most sophisticated and offensive barbs at them. In computer language this is a finger-pointing exercise where the hardware vendor(anchor) points a finger at the software(the representative of the neta’s party)  and the software vendor points a finger at the hardware  and all the poor users(the audience) gape at is the finger.
We are slowly descending into a society that has no respect for cultured, civilized and refined language, thought and  behaviour. Our educated classes have already come to this level and make a virtue of mockery and supercilious remarks. It is good to connect with aam admi and deliver the essentials to him. But before the aam admi is empowered with political authority to make impossible demands as his birthright, it is important to arm him with proper education that enables him to speak, act, and behave like a responsible citizen.  Promising the moon will only make everyone ask for the Sun without understanding that like Icarus, he will get his wings singed when he flies close to the Sun. As for the pretending educated acolytes of AK, it is easy to recognize the vacuity of our education system  that has not helped them cultivate proper reasoning and analysis. AK claims that governance is  not a rocket science- but the art of governance requires vision, ideas, policies, executive skills and a broad  catholic understanding of different strata of society.

AK and AAP have revolutionized the politics of this country. Revolutions are an integral part of human history in as much as they are an integral part of the universal order. History of the world is a sum total of the history of revolutions that have occurred at different periods. If we take the last three hundred years, starting with the last decade of the 17th century, we discover a series of revolutions that have changed world’s history and contributed to the advancement of mankind. These revolutions, more often than not have been violent which made Mao Zedong state that “Revolution is not a dinner party, nor an essay nor a painting nor a piece of embroidery; it cannot be advanced softly, gradually, carefully, considerately, respectfully, politely and modestly. A revolution is an insurrection, an act of violence by which one class overthrows another.” But revolution is not to be identified with rebellion. Rebellion is individual-centric unlike Revolution that touches everyone.
History is replete with Revolutions. They repeatedly bring about a cataclysmic change that arrest the flow of history, change the track and trace a new path. So long as Man thinks (and he is genetically designed to do so), he continuously conceives of ways and means of bringing in a society that would not be imperfect. This is the genesis of all revolutions- a search for a perfect or a near perfect social order. As a result, there has been no one single revolution that can be said to be ultimate or definitive. As time moves, every new order ushered in by a revolutionary movement is intercepted in its march, marking the beginning of a yet another revolution. Adapting the oft quoted hailing of a new monarch, it can be truly said: ‘ revolution is dead; long live Revolution.’  Camus rightly said:  “If there had been one real revolution, there would be no more history.” The history of revolutions is a cyclical story of revolutions and counter- revolutions and in all the cases the underlying urge has been the emancipation of mankind from adverse political, economic and social pressures.
AK and AAP should recall what the great Greek philosopher, Aristotle said about Revolutions which had effected change of government in the Greek city-states of his time – alternating between oligarchy and democracy –but a change brought in mostly without physical violence. He said: “Revolutions are effected in two ways-by force and by fraud”, where fraud is the process by which “citizens are deceived into acquiescing in a change of government, and afterwards they are held in subjection against their will.” He advocated persuasion to use of force to win the goodwill of people and their allegiance to the ruling government.Aristotle's understanding of revolution is fundamentally different from the modern understanding, for to him it is value neutral. But if revolutions fail to live up to those very ideals when they adversely impact people in the physical, social and psychological dimensions of their personality. The failure is two fold: it nullifies the positive effects of the revolution and it breeds a new negativity in the post- revolutionary period. AAP has to bear this in mind even as it celebrates the signal service it has done in revolutionizing Indian politics. AK on assuming office has stated that the people and not he will run the government. This is a novel idea and therefore attractive, but it is equally disturbing. Such utterances have to be taken with abundant caution as mob-governance may end up with disintegrating and dismantling the very structure of society. Disputes and conflicts are endemic to human beings and therefore seeking Mohallas’ views as part of empowering the aam admi will create more dissatisfaction and intolerance. Governance is not the right of aam admi. It is the right of those who aam admi elects to govern. Let democracy be for the people and of the people but not by the people lest the Indian polity collapses at the high altar of governance.
 Awake- Yes. 
Arise- yes ,but tempered with understanding.
 Stop not until the goal is achieved- ye, s with the awareness that awakening and arising are continuous processes as the goalpost can never be a fixed one.






Wednesday, 25 December 2013

'NO' Ministers-Arvind and his Cabinet


                                                   ‘NO’ ministers – Arvind and his cabinet.

Come December 28- three days before the year of aam admi  ends- and Delhi will have a new Chief Minister whose ‘NO’ to corruption has been further bolstered by his  ‘NO’ to  security, ‘NO’ to official bungalow, ‘NO’ to red beacon, ‘NO’ to convoy and the latest ‘NO’  to elegant wear. He seems to spurn everything beginning with ‘NO’ to support from either Congress or BJP. He has finally ended saying   ‘YES’ because the ‘aam admi’ said ‘NO’ to his not accepting the Chief MInistership.  The new CM is certainly a ‘NO ’ man with the sole exception of turning ‘NO’ on its head with regard to forming an AAP government in Delhi.
The media has gone gaga over the CM-designate. All those experts who make their regular appearances on the TV channels- except for an occasional dissenter -were eloquent about the positives of Arvind’s ‘NO’s especially his NO’ to the red beacon and the convoy.  But in their enthusiasm to welcome the new ‘NO’ minister, they forgot that neither the earlier CM nor the present Goa CM have ever used a convoy or the red beacon and Arvind is not the first one to claim for himself this  special honour. In fact not having a red beacon and a fleet of cars to follow is the greatest security for any CM or any Minister. This is Arvind’s master stroke to get security by denying security and making a virtue of it.
As for the security cover, it is good that the new CM has more faith in God to provide him security than mere police mortals. May we all pray that the Lord gives Arvind a protective cover from the assaults of brainsick, crazy and demented individuals who are paid to be trigger-happy. An aam admi in pre-election mode  will have to turn a responsible leader post-election. To take undue risks is reckless daredevilry and does not behove of someone who has been entrusted with responsibility to govern. Anyhow the good thing is the security personnel will be released to protect the aam admi and fuel charges on convoy diminishedTo that extent AK has set in motion a key change.

AK’s  next ‘NO’ to is to official bungalow. The reasons given are as follows: He regards official bungalow as a perk and so he has to say ‘NO’ to it. It defies all logic. Where CM stays is CM’s residence and it has to be maintained, whether it is a kutir or a palace. It is the official place where people from all walks of life congregate to meet him daily.  Arvind cannot expect to meet all people in his office unless he stays there 24x7. There is a certain quiet dignity about CM’s status. Even if one loves to remain an aam admi, one can remain so even in a bungalow. There is the White House for the US President, Rashtrapathi Bhavan for our President, official residences for the PM and his ministers. The official accommodation is not for the individual but for the official position to enable him/her to work outside of the office hours. It is misguided mindset that looks at a bungalow as an extravaganza to be shunned and an apartment(that Arvind wants to demonstrate that he is an aam admi) to be welcomed. If so, how many of the aam admis who have voted him to power have apartments?  Why all this rhetoric and gimmick he has to resort to by cheapening the official status of a Chief Minister? What happens to the bungalows? If economy is a priority, then maintenance of these bungalows to the tune of 14 crores per annum may be a saving. But that means the well kept bungalows that add to the elegance of Delhi should be left to decay and disintegration or does Arvind have a use for them by handing them over to those who do not have a roof over their heads? In that case also the maintenance charges will have to be incurred annually. But the moot question is what happens to all the malis and gardeners and maintenance personnel engaged in the upkeep of Ministers bungalows?


The last ‘NO’ is to elegant sartorial wear as he prefers to be in his trademark commonplace clothes, crumpled and worn with deliberate carelessness.  He wants to prove that he is an aam admi at heart, in mind  and in dress. Again the question arises as to how many aam admis that we see on the Delhi streets do not wish to be better dressed? Today no aam admi wears a dhoti; he is always in shirts and jeans. He wants to wear elegant clothes to be on par with non aam admis. The goal or vision  of those elected to govern is to raise the aam admi’s living standards and this cannot be done by remaining an aam admi . Mark Twain said: “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” If Arvind wants to influence aam admi to dream high, he cannot clothe himself forever in common man’s clothes that we see in Laxman’s trademark cartoon. There is a difference between elegance and extravagance. Arvind should recall Polonius’ advice to his son in Hamlet :
Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man,
He should understand that clothes do not make the man but when man is made, clothes greatly improve his appearance. On a more serious note, if Arvind sets up his brand of unironed and commonplace wardrobe, what will happen to all the presswallas who have entrusted their total faith in him.
AK has fired his gun. Hope the gunshot is only  in celebration of the aam admi’s victory bringing in a new brand of “NO’ isms.

Sunday, 22 December 2013

We, the People-Indian of the Year




                                               We the People- Indian of the Year
IOTY 2013 was announced yesterday with the usual gusto and cheering from an invited audience of celebrities. While many of the awardees deserved the honour bestowed on them- (late)Justice J.S.Verma for Lifetime achievement, Deepika Padukone and Team  ITBP and NDRF for Special achievement, Leander Paes and Ramkant Achrerkar  for  Outstanding achievement,  ADR and Lily Thomas for Public service, P.V.Sindhu for Sports, Rajiv Bajaj for Business and Stop Acid Attacks-SAA, a NGO for the Crowning glory of Indian of the year , two IOTY awards  for Politics and for Entertainment came as an anti-climax, almost taking the sheen off the CNN_IBN glittering ceremony.
Arvind Kejriwal was declared IOTY for Politics by a jury consisting of eminent persons from different walks of life. He was chosen over all other eminent contenders that included Shivraj Singh Chouhan and Raman Singh both of whom have scored a hat-trick of getting elected as Chief ministers of MP and Chhatisgarh respectively, Rajasthan comeback Chief Minister Vasundhara Raje, Karnataka CM Siddaramaiah and Union Minister Jairam Ramesh. What seemed to have tilted the Jury’s views in favour of Arvind was that he had proved a giant killer by defeating the popular Delhi Chief Minister Sheila Dixit and had gained acceptance with Delhi voters within a year of forming his broom-spangled party. But how does this catapult him to a higher position than Chouhan or Raman Singh who have been thrice tested and elected or Vasundhara Raje who had demolished the incumbent Rajasthan CM, Ashok Gehlot on a comeback trail? The Editor-in-Chief of CNN-IBN, Rajdeep Sardesai with a mischievous smile hailed the giant killer saying he had changed the course of politics in the country. It all started with Anna Hazare last year and Arvind made political capital out of it. With anti-corruption as his crusading weapon, he had launched a vitriolic attack on the two contending parties Congress and BJP and showed that every member of these two parties deserves to be politically eliminated as each one of them was steeped in corruption. Arvind made corruption as his platform to enter politics calling all his opponents ‘chors’ and dishonourable persons, though he could not substantiate any of his claims against them. What better way could he have chosen to connect with masses who, in general, out of sheer envy and frustration love listening to attacks and criticism of all netas? Like the nursery rhyme about old Mcdonald, Arvind and his partymen and women made a chorus:  “here a corruption, there a corruption, everywhere a corruption,E-I-E-I-O” . Even after his party’s moderate success in the recent Delhi elections, they continue to use derogatory language against all parties while weaving a halo of honesty around them on their ‘aam admi’ caps. The IOTY acceptance speech by Arvind was graceless and full of bombast arrogantly claiming that governance was not a rocket science and that he would rule Delhi better than all others. There was hubris in his body language and in his choice of words and he played to the celebrity gallery who though were ill at ease, nevertheless felt duty bound to applaud the giant killer. He seems to believe that he is David personified and all non-aam admi party members are Goliaths of corruption.  For him and his party, neither Congress nor BJP had done anything to Delhi all these years and its people, but only been swindling them  and he, the modern David has arrived to demolish all the Goliaths and put them behind bars. The Editor-in-Chief Rajdeep Sardesai egged him on to carry his venomous politics for which he had been awarded IOTY for Politics. All those glitterati that had converged in the auditorium were made to look sheepish as they were not the aam admis. Their loud applause at Arvind’s holier-than –thou attitude was to say the least, obsequious and smarmy.
The other questionable award was the one given in the category of entertainment. Kapil was chosen above Deepika Padukone and Shah Rukh Khan, Farhan Akhtar and team Lunchbox . Kapil Sharma’s brand of humour is risqué, often coarse with plenty of waspish one-liners in a monotone. Having seen him with other comedians in Comedy shows other than the one sponsored by CNN_IBN’s own entertainment channel, ‘Colours’- his selection as IOTY (entertainment) was  odd and a trifle disconcerting. Among the category of comedians, there are many others with whom he was performing Comedy Circus before he joined the Colours programme. Kapil’s acceptance speech was loquacious and babbling and he wanted to join the aam admi bandwagon by entering into a dialogue with Arvind. He seemed to be so carried away by the awesome award conferred on him that he forgot that he had to make a gracious acceptance speech.  “I-me- Kapil” was the tenor of his ten minutes on stage performanceinterspersed with his one-liners to Arvind.
These two ‘misplaced ‘awards bring to the fore two characteristics of We, the People of India.  We are not a humourous race who can laugh at ourselves. We need humour only to dissect and destroy others. We think of comedy only as Satire and that too Political Satire that employs ironic comedy to portray persons or social institutions as ridiculous or corrupt, thus alienating their audience from the object of humor. We have not refined our sense of humour to laugh at the simple foibles of men and women, but often mistake comedy to be one of scatological or sexual humour. The wry smile that was forced out of the celebrity audience at Arvind’s taunts and Kapil’s insipid talk during the IOTY ceremony is a testimony to our lack of understanding good comedy. Our TV comedies do not explore the cracks and contradictions in our attitudes and conventions nor are they a kind of commentary on social life, based on close observation and incisive questioning. Most of the time they fall flat and they try to force people to laugh at bawdiness and vulgarity as the spice of humour. Humour, thy name is not Indian.
The other characteristic that is singularly Indian is to pretend to take high moral ground specially on a public platform. Indians are master pretenders and no wonder why we always moralise and sermonize as though we are forever speaking from the pulpit. We will pretend to be an aam admi who shall make a virtue of ordinariness and elevate ourselves to the distinguished category of extra-ordinary people by remaining nondescript in our appearance. That is why neither US nor Europe nor China nor Pakistan nor for that matter even Togo or Italy takes us seriously.  We are relegated as an inconsequential, preachy race, who loves to talk in homilies. As a race, we preach what others should do and not what we should. That is the reason why we always speak of our rights and not of our duties. We are not a mature democracy where, duties go along with rights. AAP’s way of seeking referendum on whether to form the government  from  aam admis who had already cast their votes in its favour is pathetic. Arvind’s gimmick  is a mockery of democracy, in line with H.L. Mencke’s  observation that ‘Democracy is a pathetic belief in the collective wisdom of individual ignorance.’ Democratic governance is the right given to people to elect their representatives to govern. If everyone has to have a say in governance, -and that too, in a vast pluralistic, multi-lingual, multi religious country like India, the result will be  a cacophony of voices that would put the Babel of tower to shame.
Has CNN_IBN in  a covert way given the IOTY to We, the People of India by honouring Arvind and Kapil?

Thursday, 19 December 2013

Chennai- Confluence of Tradition and Modernity



                                    Chennai- Confluence of Tradition and Modernity
I have just returned to Delhi from Chennai after a three day stay in the city. I had not visited Chennai for the last fifty years during the Marghazi Music festival season as all my visits have been during summer holidays when Chennai is at its hottest with temperatures upwards of 40°C. The hottest part of the year is late May to early June, known regionally as Agni Nakshatram ("fire star") or as Kathiri Veyyil, with maximum temperatures around 35–40 °C. But December – January are the coolest months with minimum temperatures around 15–22 °C. Hence this year’s visit in December was pleasant- in fact doubly pleasant as Delhi temperatures had already plummeted to less than 10°C. So it was from freezing pan to cool warmth that made Chennai visit all the more enjoyable. One could swing one’s arms freely and walk about, unshackled by jackets and cardigans. One could display Kanchipuram sarees without hiding their rich colours and their intricacy of work, lovely pattern and their distinctive wide contrast borders in zari and gold thread. Chennai people don’t think twice spending on silk sarees.  The Bridal silk sarees range from Rs 7000 to a little less than a lakh and give a king – rather a queen size complex when anyone wears anything in a lesser range.  This is not singularly a Chennai phenomenon; it is also prevalent in Delhi and other parts of India. But what is of significance is Chennai has continued the tradition of silk sarees to be worn round the year. Unlike the Delhi culture where Diwali heralds the packing of cotton sarees and the unpacking of the silk wardrobe, Chennai revels in high quality silk sarees even during the Kathiri Veyyil period. While the older generation still swears by the Kanchipuram variety, the younger ones go for designer silk sarees.  After all silk is silk is silk.
I discovered a noticeable change in the sartorial preference in Chennai- the invasion of salwar-kameez. This is not limited to young college girls and office goers, but has spread among middle aged ladies who have discarded the pride of Chennai saree. One is reminded of Carlyle’s Sartor Resartus that discusses imaginary ‘Philosophy of Clothes’ to state that cultures reconstruct themselves in changing fashions, power-structures, and faith-systems. The Madrasi’s
(Chennai-ite is a more appropriate term as in the North anyone below the Vindhyas is called a Madrasi) acceptance of the Punjabi sartorial elegance is similar to their acceptance of Hindi and Bollywood despite their humungous pride in saree, in Kollywood and in Tamil, the 2000 year old classical language. This adoption of the Northern wear is typical of the Tamilian culture of kow-towing to the fairer race from the North, who Tamils think set the fashion trend for the entire nation. The real Chennai Express is seen here where the journey is from Chennai to Delhi, absorbing new trends in sartorial elegance even while holding firmly to the native saree that is a must for all celebratory occasions. The middle aged Mamis(aunties) whose sons, daughters, nephews, nieces, cousins and pussy cats are US based Indian Born American Desis have made a nice balance of Long Kurtas and Jeans(kurtis are only for the younger generation) for daily wear and shimmering silk sarees with diamond necklaces and bracelets( though it is difficult to make out if they are real diamonds or American diamonds) for weddings and other festival days. They have trimmed their hair to shoulder length that is normally left open, but on festive occasions they make a pony tail entwined with jasmine flower- an artful and intelligent fusion of tradition and modernity. As for the gents, weddings and such festive functions are grand occasions to be bare- chested though no one has a six pack to show. The Tambrahms, in particular are smug to display a rotund stomach –almost like a beer belly-though they would not have tasted a drop of the harmless beer in their life.
Chennai is a city of restaurants (often written in Tamil ’cabe’(café), hotels and hospitals. This is not to disparage the food served in these eating joints, but the proximity of hotels and hospitals on every street  is an index of Chennai-ites obsession with ‘tififin’ and obsession with health. It is interesting to listen to the small talk of Chennai people which will always be a detailed account of some minor illness and the covert pride in going through innumerable tests and consuming a huge pile of tablets daily. I listened to a Tamil explaining to his American friend in his halting English that ‘idlis are harmless as they are entirely made of steam’. The restaurants and other small food joints are crowded all through the day from early morning till ten at night. I was told that many housewives after seeing off their husbands to the office and children to schools and colleges enjoy a tete-a-tete brunch in these eating joints. For them it is a refreshing change from their own dull and prosaic cooking and an opportunity to get out in search of innocent entertainment. I saw groups of 4-5 Mamis at different ‘cabe’s  enjoying being served  and waited upon- the chores they had been doing ever since their marriage and the chores they will continue till they take their final retirement. This is yet another instance of traditional Mamis’ approach to modern life style.
Chennai is a city of statues. The statue culture commemorating a historical event or the life of an influential person is the distinguishing landmark of Chennai.  On the Marina Beach promenade alone there are eighteen statues of great Tamil poets like Kambar and  Bharathiyar, Thiruvalluvar  and Awaiyar, of saints like Ilango Adigal and Swami Vivekananda , of National leaders like Mahatma Gandhi and   Subhas Chandra Bose,  of Tamil politicians like Kamaraj and  Thanthai Periyar, of  cinema idols like Shivaji Ganesan and  MGR along with the Triumph of Labour , the first statue erected on the Beach with its symbolic significance.  Since Chennai –ites are crazy about films and have a strong temple culture, all politicians and film stars have their large cut-outs  on high raised pedestals as though they are gods and goddesses. While Chennai is like London with huge statues peeking out of important streets, unlike London, the walls and bridges and lamp posts of the city are defaced with posters of living politicians and cine stars. Tamils are genetically wired to legends –both past and present and there is a strong in-built tendency to hero-worship. Chennai and Chennai people have a great fascination for the English language. Notwithstanding their Tamilinglish accent-that hardly keeps any English alphabet silent – and their  use of pidgin incorporating Tamil and English words, they have great pride in  ‘talking English, walking English, laughing English’ a la Amitabh Bachchan in the film Natwarlal. Though they understand Hindi, they will answer only in English in broken sentences.  Even the priests in the Temple love to explain in half English, half Tamil the significance of the deity and the prayers they recite. Never can there be such a delightful co-existence of an ancient and modern language.
This city is known for its music sabhas.  In the early sixties of the last century, there were not many sabhas and unless one purchased season tickets for the December music festival,  it was difficult to attend any of the concerts. There was also a perpetual dilemma as to which concert one should attend as many of the senior music maestros would be performing at the same time in different venues. Those days are gone and one can internet the tickets in advance as Chennai is a computer-savvy city. The sabhas have mushroomed and it is not that difficult to attend a concert of one’s choice. Unlike Delhi where attending a concert without ticket is looked upon as patronizing arts, Chennai-ites are great connossieurs of Carnatic  music who will not mind buying tickets . Shakespeare’s tribute to the loveliness of Cleopatra can well be applied to Carnatic music that is a passion with Chennai-ites.

            Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale
                          Her infinite variety: other women cloy
                          The appetites they feed: but she makes hungry
                          Where most she satisfies;” (substitute Cleopatra by Carnatic Music)

                                                            

Young and old, men and women, Hindus, Christians and Muslims, all love Carnatic music in Chennai. Some of the Nadaswara Vidwans are Muslims and they play on their pipes-wind instruments in temples  and also when deities are taken in procession on festival days. Music seems to run in their blood. Despite the crass Kollywood and Bollywood numbers that send them to a tizzy, they love the ragas, swaras and rhythms of Carnatic music. While the four and five star hotels engage top DJs and crooners for their night clubs, the youngsters in Chennai do not let go of Carnatic concerts. It is amazing to find many young engineers and professionals on stage performing full length music concerts. The passion for music is another distinguishing aspect of Chennai culture where paradoxically a great deal of emphasis is given to learning and in particular to information technology.  While the young flock to umpteen engineering colleges in search of a degree that will catapult them to USA, their cerebral power is matched by their love for devotional music. In fact, the Tamils are highly emotional and this is seen in the way they respond to happiness and grief. (When MGR died, many men shaved their head in grief). The NRIs of Tamil origin take their annual vacation during the Music season in December-January. So enterprising are the Tamils- and specially women that during this season, they rent out a couple of rooms to NRI visitors for handsome cash which in any case will be far less than the charges in hotels and inns. They provide the traditional breakfast of idlis and dosas and such a B&B arrangement is better than what the Western countries provide. Can there be a better fusion of tradition and modernity?

The last aspect of Chennai culture is it has borrowed the best of the West and fused it with its native tradition in a seamless fashion. Most of the Chennai homes have distinct modern décor but every home has a separate place for the Gods-almost temple like in structure. The Tamils are god-fearing and devout people. The temples in the evening are crowded and women carry oil with them to light the temple lamps. Whether in US or in India, the Tamils have great faith in astrology and tradition and seldom do they falter on observing practices that have traditionally been handed to them ( especially when they return to Chennai).  Marriage proposals are first vetted by astrologers before they are taken farther. They can have their pizzas and burgers outside, but they cannot be without their rasam and dahi bath(curd rice). They can well adapt to Western ways but at heart they are simple people, satisfied with the simple joys of life. Chennai is a perfect blend of tradition and modernity. It is among the few cities in India that exports brilliant young men and women to the West in large numbers. Often during my visits, I have seen beautiful homes with just two members- the parents who proudly show photographs of their sons and daughters in the West. I used to wonder if Chennai is a city of senior citizens only! But the old parents living alone are cheerful and uncomplaining, waiting for the annual visits of their children. There is of course the i-pad, the skype, and the internet to get connected daily, almost hourly to  chat with their sons and daughters about what they have made for lunch, tiffin and dinner and tell them about all things small and trivial to give their US based children the feeling of Chennai.

Chennai is uniquely catholic in embracing tradition and modernity, following T.S.Eliot’s observation that   “the past should be altered by the present as much as the present is directed by the past.”